A trio of elite American alpinists—Ethan Berkeland, August Franzen, and Vitaliy Musiyenko—is preparing a rare, alpine-style attempt on the North Face of Ogre II (Baintha Brakk II) in Pakistan’s Karakoram. This high-stakes mission aims to conquer a 6,960-meter peak that has remained unsummited for over 40 years.

The Karakoram Range is not merely a collection of mountains; it is a graveyard of ambitions and a temple of modern alpinism. While the world’s attention often fixates on the commercial queues of K2, true purists look toward the Choktoi Glacier. This summer, a three-man American team is setting their sights on Ogre II, a peak so technical and temperamental that it has successfully rebuffed nearly every attempt since its first and only ascent in 1983.

This isn't just another expedition. It is a ghost-chasing mission. The team intends to climb the North Face—the same line that claimed the lives of legendary American climbers Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson in 2016. In the world of high-altitude climbing, the decision to return to a route marked by tragedy is never taken lightly. It represents a collision of historical reverence and the relentless human drive to finish what was started.

The Ogre II: A Legend of Isolation

Standing at 6,960 meters, Ogre II (Baintha Brakk II) is often overshadowed by its taller sibling, Ogre I. Yet, for the technical climber, height is a secondary metric. The North Face of Ogre II is a vertical labyrinth of crumbling granite and precarious ice flutings.

The historical weight of this peak is staggering:

  • 1983: A South Korean team achieved the first and only summit. It was an "epic" in every sense-climbers survived an unplanned bivouac in an ice cave without sleeping bags, while another member perished during the descent.

  • 2016: Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson disappeared into a storm during an alpine-style attempt on the North Face. Their disappearance sparked one of the most publicized search-and-rescue efforts in Karakoram history, involving the Pakistani military, yet they were never found.

The current 2026 team-Berkeland, Franzen (a recent Piolet d’Or recipient), and Musiyenko-represents the vanguard of "working-class" elite climbers. Supported by the first-ever Legacy Grant from the Jess Roskelley Foundation, their mission is a deliberate pivot away from the commercialization of the Himalayas.

The Alpine Style Gamble

There is a fundamental difference between an "expedition" and an "alpine-style" ascent that the general public rarely grasps. Most 8,000-meter peaks are climbed using "siege tactics": miles of fixed ropes, established camps, and armies of high-altitude porters.

On Ogre II, this team will carry everything on their backs. No fixed ropes. No pre-placed camps. No oxygen.

This style is a conversation with the mountain, but it’s one where the mountain holds all the leverage. In my years tracking Karakoram logistics, I’ve seen that the "Alpine Style" is as much a psychological commitment as it is a physical one. You are effectively cutting your umbilical cord to the base camp. If a storm hits—as it did for Dempster and Adamson-your margin for error is zero.

The inclusion of August Franzen, who recently won the Piolet d'Or (mountaineering's equivalent of an Oscar), suggests this isn't a reckless gamble. It’s a calculated, expert-level engagement with the impossible. These men aren't looking for a "tourist" summit; they are looking for a definitive line on one of the most aesthetic and terrifying faces in the world.

The New Era of Mountaineering

As we move further into 2026, the mountaineering community is experiencing a schism. On one side, you have the "Instagram summits" of Everest and K2, where wealth often substitutes for skill. On the other, you have the quiet, brutal world of the 6,000 and 7,000-meter "minor" peaks.

Ogre II is the ultimate test of this new era. The Jess Roskelley Foundation’s involvement is significant. Roskelley, who died in a 2019 avalanche, was the epitome of the "hard-working climber"-someone who balanced a 40-hour work week with world-class objectives. Ethan Berkeland, an engineer for the Alaska Earthquake Center, fits this mold perfectly.

This expedition signals a return to the roots of American climbing: grit, technical mastery, and a deep respect for the mountains’ inherent dangers. It is a rejection of the "pay-to-play" model that has arguably diluted the spirit of the Karakoram.

Key Takeaways for the 2026 Summer Season

  • Alpine Purity: The team will utilize a "light and fast" style, moving as a single unit without external support.

  • Legacy Grant: This is the first year the Jess Roskelley Foundation is funding a climb, focusing on "working climbers."

  • The Route: The trio is targeting the North Face, aiming to complete the line attempted by Dempster and Adamson in 2016.

  • Geopolitical Stability: The expedition benefits from Pakistan’s continued push to promote the Karakoram as a premier—and safe—climbing destination.

The Choktoi Glacier: A Strategic Hub

The team will establish their base on the Choktoi Glacier, a remote valley that serves as the gateway to the Latok group and the Ogres. Unlike the bustling Baltoro Glacier (the highway to K2), the Choktoi remains a sanctuary for world-class alpinists.

The logistics of reaching this point are an expedition in themselves. From Islamabad, the team will fly to Skardu, then navigate the treacherous Jeep tracks to Askole, before trekking for days into the heart of the "Throne Room of the Mountain Gods." Every kilogram of gear must be accounted for, every calorie calculated.

South Korea vs. The World

The 1983 South Korean ascent remains one of the most debated "survival stories" in climbing history. By modern standards, their heavy-handed tactics-fixed ropes and multiple camps—are seen as a relic of a different era. Yet, the sheer willpower required to survive that summit night is undisputed.

The 2026 American team is essentially trying to do what the Koreans did, but with 1/10th of the gear and 10 times the speed. It is an evolution of the sport. If they succeed, it won't just be the second ascent of Ogre II; it will be a validation of the modern alpine style in one of the world's most hostile environments.

The Risks: Karakoram’s Unpredictable Pulse

The Karakoram is notorious for its "micro-climates." A bluebird day on the Choktoi can turn into a lethal blizzard in under thirty minutes. Because Ogre II is slightly lower than the 8,000ers, it often escapes the highest-velocity jet stream winds, but its sheer faces act as funnels for avalanches and rockfall.

For Berkeland, Franzen, and Musiyenko, the primary challenge won't just be the climbing; it will be the waiting. Success in the Karakoram is often a game of patience-waiting for that narrow "weather window" where the wind drops just enough to allow for a 48-hour push to the top.

A Defining Moment for American Climbing

This expedition is the most anticipated American mountaineering event of 2026. It carries the weight of past tragedies, the hope of a new foundation, and the technical prowess of a Piolet d’Or winner.

If they summit, they will have closed a chapter of grief that has hung over the American climbing community for a decade. If they don't, they will still have honored the legacy of those who came before them by simply having the courage to try. As the team prepares for their summer departure, the world of alpinism watches the Choktoi Glacier with bated breath.